[COSTUMES FOR "WALZER AUS WIEN" / THEATERKUNST HERMANN J. KAUFMANN].

[A collection of 26 water colour drawings depicting costumes for the pasticcio "Walzer aud Wien"]. About 1930-6.

. Comprises 26 plates (26 x 22 cm) with 31 costume drawings painted in water colours with notes and numbers in pencil. The notes refer to the operetta characters and possibly Swedish artists who were famous at that time. A label "Theaterkunst Hermann J. Kaufmann" pasted on the reverse of the plates. Housed in a specially-made box.The pasticcio "Walzer aus Wien" arranged by Erich Wolfgang Korngold and with music by Johann Strauss (father and son) was first performed at the Vienna Stadttheater in 1930. The following year it was restaged in London as "Waltzes from Vienna" and a French version entitled "Valses de Vienne" was produced in Paris. The successful operetta was based on the rivalry between Strauss the elder and Strauss the younger. We have not been able to find any Swedish performance but this set of drawings listing Swedish artists indicates that such a plan existed, even if it was never implemented. We don't know who made the drawings but the Kaufmann labels suggest that they used to belong to them. Theaterkunst Hermann Kaufmann, founded in Berlin 1907, became the world's biggest costume house for theatre, opera, and later also film productions. In the 1930s the company expanded internationally but in 1936 Hermann Kaufmann had to sell it due to political pressure.

Charlotte Du Rietz Rare BooksProfessional seller

Book number: 120704

Catalogue: Design

Keywords: Design, costumes, opera, operette, musical, austrian, vienna, swedish, sweden, artists, fashion, clothes, pastiche

[FRENCH FASHION].

La Mode Illustrée Journal de la Famille. Cinquième année de la publication. Paris, Firmin Didot Frères, 1864.

. Folio.Pp. iv, 416. With numerous woodcut illustrations throughout the text depicting clothes, accessories, hairstyles, patterns, etc. Without any coloured plates. Contemporary quarter cloth on marbled boards, lightly rubbed. The journal was first published in 1859 and became one of the most important French magazines at the later half of the 19th century. Distributed on a weekly basis, each issue featured a description of women's fashion and hair styles of the day, accompanied by numerous illustrations as well as inserted hand-coloured prints.

Charlotte Du Rietz Rare BooksProfessional seller

Book number: 120696

Catalogue: Fashion

Keywords: Fashion, design, fashion, mode, journal, style, illustration, illustrated, french, france, magazine, women, woman,

[FRENCH FASHION].

La Mode Illustrée Journal de la Famille. Sixième année de la publication. Paris, Firmin Didot Frères, 1865.

. Folio.Pp. iv, 416. With fourteen beautiful hand-coloured fashion plates (all?) and numerous woodcut illustrations throughout the text depicting clothes, accessories, hairstyles, patterns, etc. Contemporary quarter cloth on marbled boards, lightly rubbed. The journal was first published in 1859 and became one of the most important French magazines at the later half of the 19th century. Distributed on a weekly basis, each issue featured a description of women's fashion and hair styles of the day, accompanied by numerous illustrations as well as inserted hand-coloured prints. 

Charlotte Du Rietz Rare BooksProfessional seller

Book number: 120698

Catalogue: Fashion

Keywords: Fashion, design, fashion, mode, journal, style, illustration, illustrated, french, france, magazine, women, woman,

[PERFUME TRADE CATALOGUE].

Parfums Bienaimé. Paris, Draeger, 1947.

. 4to (30.4 x 24.3 cm). Pp. (30) and twenty exclusive colour illustrations printed on glossy paper, with gold highlights. Original cream coloured card covers, lettered in gilt. A few small creases to the cover.Extravagant trade catalogue promoting exclusive perfume brands with exquisite pictures. Robert Bienaimé was a French perfumer who is known for his work at Houbigant Parfum where he created several well-known fragrances for the company. In 1935 he established his own business Parfums Bienaimé in Paris. A superb copy of a rare work.

Charlotte Du Rietz Rare BooksProfessional seller

Book number: 121237

Catalogue: Fashion

Keywords: Fashion, perfume, parfym, french, france, bienaimé, design, fashion,

[TRADE CATALOGUE / FASHION / ART DÉCO].

Les premiers beaux jours. La Grand Maison du Blanc, Paris, Place del' Opera. (Paris, Draeger, ca 1929).

. Lovely catalogue with stylish design and visual impact in the Art Déco style. Irregular shaped 8vo. Pp. (12) including covers. Publisher's stapled colour decorated wrappers. Text in French by Paul Reboux. Illustrations in b/w and colour by Charles Martin (1884-1934), a French artist and contributor to fashion magazines of the time. A well-preserved catalogue by the famous Parisian designer printer Draeger. Ref. Modern Publicity 1930, The Studio p. 76. / Pages dÕor de lÕedition publicitaire, 94. / Alain Draeger, Draeger, les pages d'or de l'édition, (2019) pp. 112-3.

Charlotte Du Rietz Rare BooksProfessional seller

Book number: 121496

Catalogue: Fashion

Keywords: Fashion, france, french, design, fashion, trade, marketing, mode,

[JAPAN - SALES CATALOGUE].

Straw Hats Catalogue. New Fashion 1922. Full Fasihoned (sic) and Hand Tinished (sic). Y. Watanabe & Co., Bakudocho, Nihombashi, Tokyo, Japan. Tokyo 1922.

. A sales pamphlet comprising 10 pages folded with front cover printed in red and black and with a straw hat illustration. Size 13 x 18.5 cm. Title in English otherwise Japanese text. The catalogue offers various kinds of hats with illustrations and prices. Some minor staining.

Charlotte Du Rietz Rare BooksProfessional seller

Book number: 120665

Catalogue: Fashion

Keywords: Fashion, hat, hats, fashion, design, japan, japon, japanese, asia, asie, asien, asiatic, comemrce, sales,

CHIKANOBU, YïSHó (HASHIMOTO):

"Jidai-Kagami". (Mirror of the Ages). Tokyo, Matsuki Heikichi, Meiji 29-30 (1896-7).

. Folio. Size: 24.8 x 17.8 cm. Leporello-folded album containing 53 pages. With fifty woodcut printed plates, decorated title, index and one additional woodcut page. Text in Japanese. Original silk covered boards, rubbed. Housed in modern cloth folder. Exceptionally beautiful work illustrating women's hairstyles and fashion from the 14th to the late 19th century. Each image depicts a woman with an impeccable hairstyle, make-up and elaborate clothes that are typical of the chosen period. At the top of each page is a picture showing fragments of well-known manuscripts, prints or paintings that are recognizable from each era. All signed Yôshû Chikanobu. The quality of the printing is outstanding. A detailed list of each image is available upon request.Chikanobu (1838-1912) was trained in the Kano school but later changed direction to printmaking. He became one of the leading ukiyo-e artists of his time. Chikanobu used the flat planes and decorative pattern of the ukiyo-e tradition for striking effect, adding luminous colours, especially red, purple, and blue to his compositions. He designed across all genres, from kabuki actors and beauties to military exploits of past and present. In the 1880s, with a new wave of nationalism evoking the past, new designs were created to explore traditional Japanese culture, ethics and heroes. Chikanobu is often called a retrograde modernist, someone whose art works are positioned between old and new. In these prints you can find the longing for the past but still they are unmistakably modern and of their time. Chikanobu creates an outstanding work of absolutely the highest print quality. Rare to find complete.

Charlotte Du Rietz Rare BooksProfessional seller

Book number: 121268

Catalogue: East Asia

Keywords: East Asia, Japan, japon, japanese, asia,asie, asien, asiatic, fashion, mode, woodcuts, illustrations, ukiyo-e, nishiki-e, XPU

REVILLON FRéRES:

[TRADE CATALOGUE FOR LUXURY FURS]. La Fourrure a la Renaissance au XVIIIe siècle sous l'Empire et de nos jours. Maison Revillon 77, 79, 81 Rue de Rivoli, Paris. Ca 1910.

. 4to (31.5 x 22.8 cm). Pp. (11) printed on laid paper. Text in French by John Grand Carteret. With four plates illustrating the four eras designed by René Lelong and sixteen plates of theatrical actresses wearing period furs. Original gray cardboard with Revillon Frères logo in strong relief and gold on the front cover. Spine expertly restored.A striking fashion catalogue with portraits of famous actresses wearing fur from different periods, from the Renaissance to the time of publication (early 20th century). Photos by Félix. Staining to the text leaves (due to the paper quality). The lovely fashion plates on glossy paper are all in excellent condition.Originally founded as Maison Givelet in 1723, Revillion Frères was a renowned French fur and luxury goods company. It was bought by Louis-Victor Revillon in 1839 and successfully developed with the establishment of new fur shops in London, New York and Montreal in the 1860s. Their success encouraged the creation of a profitable fur industry in Europe and North America. At the beginning of the 20th century, French fashion designers such as Madame Isidore Paquin and Paul Poiret introduced stylish fur clothing in their regular fashion collections.

Charlotte Du Rietz Rare BooksProfessional seller

Book number: 121296

Catalogue: Fashion

Keywords: Fashion, fashion, mode, BELLE EPOQUE, art nouveau, fur, commerce, sale catalogue, trade, publicity, french, france,

HINOSHITA, MATAHEI:

Yusokufu monyo (Traditional Patterns). Three volumes. Kyoto, Ushida Bijutsu Shoshi, Showa 10 (1935).

. Folio. Size: 22.2 x 31.4 cm. An appealing album with leaves folded in the Japanese fashion. Title leave and 45 double folded leaves with more than 100 coloured woodblock printed illustrations. Original decorated paper-covered boards with printed title labels (volume two with some wear along edges). Original cloth slip case. First edition of this delightful work containing textile patterns inspired by traditional royal court kimono fabrics. The designs are printed in rich and mellow colours, some with elements of gold and silver. This kind of appealing design book, zuan-ch›, was created by the publishers in collaboration with inventive artists intended to be appreciated for its own sake, as much as for any practical role. A few minor tears at fold and occasionally some light stain but overall a fine copy. 

Charlotte Du Rietz Rare BooksProfessional seller

Book number: 120563

Catalogue: East Asia

Keywords: East Asia, japan, japon, japanese, kimono, textiles, fashion, fabrics, illustrated, exploration, design

IMANS, PIERRE:

Les cires de Pierre Imans. Sujets en cire, mannequin artistiques pour toutes industries. Paris, Draeger, 1921.

. Tall 8vo. Pp. 44. With numerous photographic illustrations of various male mannequins in wax. As issued on original beige wrappers with colour illustration on front cover, silk thread, some light browning to the cover. Rare, stylish catalogue of the latest men fashion in Paris at that time. At end some information about assembling mannequins and transportation.

Charlotte Du Rietz Rare BooksProfessional seller

Book number: 121229

Catalogue: Fashion

Keywords: Fashion, fashion, wax, mannequin, french, france, models,

JOUMARD, G.P. (Ed.).:

Les Idées Nouvelles De La Mode et Des Arts. Direction Artistique. No. 3.1924.

. 4to. Pp. (iv). With two text illustrations and sixteen full page hand-coloured pochoir plates (with mutiple images) on Chinese paper tipped-in on thick paper. As issued loose in original wrappers with pochoir illustration on upper cover, silk ties. Some wear at outer edge but overall a very good copy with stunning and beautiful fashion plates. The exclusive Art Déco journal "Les Idées Nouvelles de la Mode" was published by Joumard between 1922 and 1932 illustrating the height of French fashion at the time. Rare to find a complete annual series.

Charlotte Du Rietz Rare BooksProfessional seller

Book number: 120284

Catalogue: Fashion

Keywords: Fashion, fashion, art deco, design, clothes, mode, france, french, XPU

LELONG, RENÉ / MARTIN, CHARLES / VINCENT, RENÉ (ILLS):

HIGH LIFE TAYLOR [FASHION CATALOGUE] / L'habit c'est l'homme. Paris, Draeger, 1913.

. 4to. Text in French. A richly illustrated publicity catalogue by the prominent fashion store High Life Taylor in Paris. Pp. (8) of which six with forty refined vignettes in red by Charles Martin and eight illustrated plates (seven coloured). Original decorated covers printed in red and black, some staining to the covers. Small loss to lower right corner of front cover. Stapled. Inside covers illustrated and with four textile samples. The text consists of quotes from famous writers about the importance of clothing. A charming Art Déco catalogue for women's and men's fashion produced by the celebrated Parisian designer printer Draeger.

Charlotte Du Rietz Rare BooksProfessional seller

Book number: 121295

Catalogue: Art Deco

Keywords: Art Deco, fashion, art deco, design, clothing, france, french, illustrated, commerce, men fashion, women fashion

MARTIN, CHARLES & DEMAY, MARCELLE:

La Mode en mil neuf cent douze chez Marcelle Demay, 11 rue Royale. Paris, Draeger Frères, 1912.

. 4to. Lvs. (14) including two blanks. Text printed in yellow and black. With photographic frontispiece-portrait of French comedian Berthie Cerny, four pochoir colour illustrations of hats by Charles Martin, four tipped-in colour photographs of Cerny modelling the same hats (by Talbot). Foreword by Alfred Capus. As issued in original ivory card wrappers with yellow silk cord, with pochoir illustration on upper cover by Martin, some minor stain to back cover. Protected by original papier calque (with some stains).Sophisticated publicity album of hats produced by the celebrated Parisian printer Draeger. Charles Martin (1884-1934) was one of the most distinctive Art Déco illustrators in Paris at this time. Berthie Cerny was a French actress at the Comédie Française. One leaf at inner fold with some minor stains due to the silk cord, otherwise in lovely condition. Considered to be the most beautiful catalogue ever published by a milliner. Forney Exhibition Catalog, "Pages d'or de l'édition publicitaire", 1988, no 3.

Charlotte Du Rietz Rare BooksProfessional seller

Book number: 121231

Catalogue: Fashion

Keywords: Fashion, fashion, hats, french, france, design, mode, miliner,

MAX-LEROY FOURRURES / DUPAS, JEAN (Artist) / COLETTE, SIDONE-GABRIELLE (Text):

Ç TOI È. Paris, Draeger, Fourrures Max, (ca 1927).

. 4to. Stylish advertisement brochure containing a long poem by Colette and seven stunning plates by Dupas, printed in shades of gray and black. Seven text leaves, of which each has been folded at bottom corner (as issued). Publisher's black paper chemise with floral design printed in silver and red. A small leaflet with image of Fourrures Max's premises loosely inserted inside back cover.An impressive Art Déco work by the renowned French painter and designer Jean Dupas (1882-1964). His big breakthrough came at the Exposition des Arts Décoratifs in Paris in 1925. His masterpiece is the series of large glass murals he made in 1934 for the Grand Salon of the Normandie, the new French ocean liner. Dupas was also heavily influenced by contemporary sculpture, which we can see in this work with statue-like models. The mannequins are provocative female nudes draped in fur coats of the latest fashion. A magnificent publicity edition by Draeger Frères in excellent condition. Ref. Pages d'or de l'édition publicitaire, no.18.

Charlotte Du Rietz Rare BooksProfessional seller

Book number: 121244

Catalogue: Fashion

Keywords: Fashion, fashion, french, france, mode, design, art deco,

SEISEN, YOSHII (Artist) [Kimono designs]:

Hana Tsuma. Matsuya Gofukuten Ishobu Kensyyo Moyo. Kyoto, Uns›d›, 1908.

. A large-format album (33.5 x 23.5cm) with one hundred beautiful kimono designs, sparsely decorated, woodblock-printed in vivid colours, protected by tissue-guards (slightly darkened). Printed Japanese captions. Contains 52 leaves including title and colophon. Four leaves with small marginal tear and two leaves with minor hole. The leaves are folded in the traditional Japanese fashion. Bound in the original decorated silk-covered wrappers, worn and stained, with some loss of silk. Title label on upper cover, small loss of one character.This impressive zuan-ch› (design) book was produced by Matsuya Clothing Store (predecessor of Matsuya Department Store). Consisting of various award-winning design entries in a competition organised by them. The patterns depicting flowers and plants are very refined and sophisticated. Fine impressions and colours. The first twelve designs are captioned as January - December, and the remaining numbered 13 to 100. Issued by the famous publishing house Uns›d› in Kyoto.

Charlotte Du Rietz Rare BooksProfessional seller

Book number: 121365

Catalogue: East Asia

Keywords: East Asia, japan, japanese, japon, asia, asie, asien, asiatic, komono, design, textile, fashion, illustrated, woodcut,